We have spent the past week or so in the Northern states of Sinaloa and Chihuahua. Unfortunately, these areas have become synonymous with the “narco” war in Mexico and as a result the tourist industry has been hit hard. It’s a great shame as we have found much to enjoy here: awe-inspiring scenery, colourful towns steeped in history, and welcoming, friendly people.
After arriving on the mainland we travelled to a small town called ‘El Fuerte’ two hours east of the Pacific coast. It felt a million miles away from the American playground of Baja. The cobbled streets were lined with brightly coloured buildings and in the plaza groups of men wearing cowboy hats sought shade from the searing midday heat.
The following morning we were up early to board the Chihuahua al Pacifo train, the last remaining passenger train in Mexico. The route traverses the high Sierra Madre mountains, with an elevation of 8000 feet in places, and the views are breathtaking. It’s an amazing feat of engineering: the railroad includes 36 bridges and 87 tunnels, one of which is nearly 6000 feet long. The train itself is pretty classy too, with a bar and dining carriage, so we were able to get in some huevos rancheros whilst admiring the vista.
After a quick stop in Diversadero, which overlooks the incredible Barranca del Cobre (the Copper Canyon) we disembarked in Creel, the main centre of tourism in the area.
We stayed at the Posada de Creel, run by a very helpful and multi-talented señor named Roger. Formally a star of Mexican novellas (soaps), he now owns a ranch that has, among other things, it's own herd of zebra (we saw the photos to prove it!) His generosity and encyclopedic knowledge of Mexico really made our stay.
When we arrived at the Posada a fiesta was in full flow following the victory of Mexico over France in the World Cup. The whole country was elated: the hour-long evening news showed only the match highlights and subsequent celebrations. (As an aside, we are beginning to think that Mexican football commentators are selected for their posts solely on how long they can string out the word ‘gooooooooaaaaal’ for!)
The next few days were taken up with exploring the landscape around Creel. We went for a hike through the Valley of the Frogs and the Valley of the Mushrooms, named for their unusual rock formations. In addition, these valleys are home to several Rarimuri families. The Rarimuri have lived in this area for thousands of years and are renowned for their brightly coloured clothing and athletic prowess - Rarimuri translates as "those who run fast".
The next few days were taken up with exploring the landscape around Creel. We went for a hike through the Valley of the Frogs and the Valley of the Mushrooms, named for their unusual rock formations. In addition, these valleys are home to several Rarimuri families. The Rarimuri have lived in this area for thousands of years and are renowned for their brightly coloured clothing and athletic prowess - Rarimuri translates as "those who run fast".
We also hired a scooter for the day and had fun tearing around the winding roads to the bottom of the Barranca del Cobre and to the Cusarare waterfall. Unfortunately we got caught in a thunderstorm on the way back and were drenched by the time we got to Creel...but it was definately atmospheric!
Susie and Phil xx
