The immigration procedure at Puerto Barrios in Guatemala has got to be the most laid-back we’ve encountered so far. After getting off the skiff which carried us across the sea from the Belizean coast we were directed to a tiny office up a non-descript street. The official asked us a single question: “how long in Guatemala?” Satisfied with our answer he stamped our passports and with a broad grin and said “Bienvenidos” (Welcome). Job done. Our plan was to travel across the country to Antigua, stopping in Rio Dulce to break the journey (and to avoid having to spend a night in Guatemala City – widely regarded as a place to get in and out of as fast as possible). As we were trudging to the bus station laden with bags, a colectivo (shared taxi) pulled up which was going to our desired destination. Swayed by convenience and price we paid our 20 quetzals (about £1.60) and clambered in.
Colectivos are essentially minivans that ply certain routes, picking up as many customers as possible along the way. A tout employed by the driver leans his head out of the window or open door and yells out the destination, trying to entice more people on board. When we got on the 12-seater Hyundai van it was almost full…or so we thought. However, as we drove through the city more and more people got on, until a quite incredible 23 passengers were on board. The tout even tried to talk an incredulous looking woman and her daughter to get on after that. The hour and a half journey took twice as long as we expected, and was not the most comfortable of rides, but it was great opportunity to experience a quintessentially Latin American way of travelling! Rio Dulce was a pleasant enough town, but it’s real draw was the lovely riverside location. Our hostel was not quite as lovely, but we tried to overlook the rodent inhabitants as all profits apparently helped support local child welfare projects. Nonetheless, we were quite relieved to leave for Antigua the next day.
Antigua was the capital city of Guatemala until 1773 until it was almost destroyed by a huge earthquake. After this the administrative centre of the country was moved down the road to Guatemala City. However, Antigua has since been restored to its former glory and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is easy to see why: the cobbled streets are lined with well maintained traditional buildings of all colours, with beautiful plazas and churches every few blocks. However, the remains of earthquake damaged buildings can still be seen, a reminder of the ferocious natural forces Guatemala has to contend with. The colonial appearance of the city, and the plethora of upmarket restaurants, bars and shops, give the whole place a very European feel. It’s like a sanitised version of Guatemala – very beautiful and comfortable, but not really a true representation of the country. We took advantage of our three days in Antigua by drinking lots of nice wine and coffee, eating as much salad and lentils as humanly possible (rice, beans and tortillas are starting to take their toll), and enjoying the rather cool climate – blissful after three months of stickiness. And we did still manage to get in a couple of day trips.
Finca Filadelfia is a plantation situated on the outskirts of Antigua that makes some of the best coffee in Guatemala, largely due to its nutrient heavy volcanic soil. As fully-paid up caffeine addicts a visit to the finca was essential, so we jumped in a tuk-tuk (hilarious) and got dropped off at the front door.
We spent a happy two hours learning all about coffee beans, nematode worms, shade trees and drying processes before getting to sample a cup of the best stuff they produce. Definitely a worthwhile pilgrimage for any coffee lover!
Our other trip was to see Volcan Pacaya, which has been erupting on a regular basis since the 1960s. The last eruption was on the 28th May this year - perhaps a little too close for comfort. It killed fifteen people and covered Guatemala City with a thick layer of black ash that lasted for days. (In the same week tropical storm Agatha killed 89 people, the infamous sink hole appeared, and a number of severed heads were placed on the steps of congress. Not a great time). Unfortunately, the day we went Pacaya was considered too dangerous to climb, but we were able to wander around in the still smoking lava flow at the bottom of the volcano. We were quite relieved when we were safely ensconced back in the bus, speeding away down the hillside at great speed. However, the locals don't let little things like this put them off the most important fixture of the week: the Sunday league football game lives on in the shadow of the volcano!
Susie and Phil xxx
